I drove some hours into northern France to see the memorials to the Battle of the Somme, particularly the Commonwealth memorials. First stop was Vimy Ridge, where there was a Canadian front line. It's a very spooky place. You don't have to imagine very hard to see beyond the existing pleasant countryside. The trenches, tunnels and bomb craters are all preserved, though sanitised. It rained on me the whole time, just to make it particularly gloomy.